Places of Interest

The Garfagnana

The Garfagnana is the Natural Park of Tuscany, and indeed areas to the north of this region are officially recognised as regional Nature Reserves. The whole area is one of the finest in Italy for walkers and hikers.

The region starts a few kilometres north-west of Lucca (taking in the lower Serchio valley), passes through Bagni di Lucca, past Barga and up the valley to Aulla, the main town of the Lunigiana region.

Within the Garfagnana there are enormous and ancient chestnut forests, alpine meadows, caves, ridges, cascading streams and the hilltop villages that seem to grow from the rocks.

Towns of the area

 Barga – this is the most important town in the Valle del Serchio, sometimes known as ‘Little Scotland’ due to its population of second- or third-generation Scots-Italians returning to their roots. Barga Vecchia (Old Barga) is dominated by its fine cathedral, and it is worth the climb to the top to see the incredible view of the valley and the surrounding hills spotted with little villages, all of which is surrounded by the mountains. The old town is best seen on foot and there are all sorts of hidden alleyways and tight staircases to explore.The mediaeval walled town centre lies on a spur above the modern part of the town, called Barga Giardino.

Castelnuovo di Garfagnana – the capital of the Garfagnana area, this walled town has its origins dating back to the 8 th century. This is now the industrial centre of the area.

Bagni di Lucca – a town of ‘poets, princes and philosophers’, this was once a famous resort/spa frequented by the likes of Byron, Shelley, Rossini, Puccini and the Brownings. It is reputed as having had the first casino in Europe (now closed) and there are still numerous spas and thermal baths to be visited. Napoleon Bonaparte housed stables in Bagni, and his sister became a resident to enable her to retain her youthful appearance through constant use of the spas.

Lucca – if Florence is the ‘place to admire’ then Lucca is the ‘place to love’. It would be very hard for anyone not to be enchanted with Lucca . It has a collection of artworks that have made it well-known throughout the world. It is also called the ‘city of the hundred churches’ some of which are truly beautiful. This is a city full of diversity, from the museum of Roman artefacts (including mosaic walkways) right through the centuries to arrive at the designer shopping available on Via Fillungo. The tourist information office offers guided tours in many languages, and this comes highly recommended in order to gain an appreciation of this city. Parking is available outside the walls and allows you to stay for as long as you want. Parking inside the walls is generally limited to 1 hour and is payable by meter.

Florence – a day trip to Florence can be worthwhile to whet your appetite for a longer stay, as you will not be able to enjoy everything it can offer in a few short hours. However, if you wish to travel there from the Garfagnana, don’t take the car! Take the train from Fornaci di Barga or Lucca (there is parking available beside both stations) as it is quicker, cheaper and much more relaxing. The train travels through the valley of flowers and Santa Maria Novella station is right in the centre of Florence . Most of Florence is now ‘pedestrians only’, making the ring road a race-track, and battling through the suburbs of Florence may take you most of the day! Parking is also a huge problem.

Attractions

 Grotta del Vento (Caves of the Wind) – reputedly the best cave system in Tuscany, this attraction is located near the village of Fornovolasco, and as soon as they open the door to the cave you will know where its name came from! Even on the hottest day in summer, take something warm to wear if you plan to tour the interior of the caves.

Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge) – a narrow five-arched bridge built in the fourteenth century (by the Devil himself, if legend is to be believed!). Worth a walk to the top of the highest arch. Located close to Borgo a Mozzano.

San Pellegrino in Alpe – a sanctuary and museum in a spectacular location in the middle of the Appennine, offering fantastic views across the Serchio valley. In the village there are two shops, a restaurant and a bar. For the energetic, there is also a ramble taking you higher up the hill should you feel up to it. Wear sturdy shoes/boots as it is a bit like a goat track in places.

Parco dell’Orecchiella – a beautiful nature reserve in the middle of the Apuane mountains. There is a visitor centre, a mini-zoo complete with indigenous animals (for conservation purposes), botanical garden and picnic areas. To reach the Park, leave Castelnuovo heading for Castiglione, then follow signs for Villa Collemandina and then Corfino. Keep travelling this road, through Corfino, and you will end up at the visitor centre within the Park.

Lago di Vagli – north-west of Castelnuovo, take the road for Lago di Vagli from Poggio. This is a large artificial lake which covers the old part of the village Vagli di Sotto. The buildings are still there, under the water, and when the water is at a low level, the church spire can be seen underneath the surface. In a dry summer, the whole lake can run dry leaving the entire village visible. Also, every 10 years the lake is drained for 2 weeks, allowing visitors and former residents alike to walk amongst the buildings within the village. The area of Vagli is a good starting point for many good walks/hikes. Boats are also available for hire to take out on the lake.

Orrido di Botri – this is a beautiful and dramatic natural gorge to the north of Bagni di Lucca. It is accessible and walkable, although it is extremely narrow in places, and the valley is an ideal place for a picnic. There is a rich variety of natural beauty in this area (from plants, wildlife and for the lucky, the possibility of spotting a golden eagle) and it is a fantastic place for a ramble. Don’t go if it is raining, as parts of it will be inaccessible. It can get very crowded in August as the city dwellers head for the cool relief this area offers.

Paese del Balocchi, Collodi, by Pescia – Pinocchio park, a large park for children built in honour of the most famous puppet in the world. However, the original story of Pinocchio varies somewhat from the Disney version, and is a bit more macabre in places, so be wary of the on-site puppet show if you have very young children with you (it seems that Pinocchio was hanged from a tree at one point!). This is a good day out for children and adults alike, in order to expend some energy running around the various attractions in the park. In front of the Paese del Balocchi stands the ancient Villa Garzoni, set within one of the most beautiful gardens in Italy (they took 100 years to build and you can see why!).

The mountain pass - not listed in any of the guide books, the drive from Castelnuovo to Massa is spectacular, taking you over the mountains. You start by going through chestnut forests, and climbing all the time, you will eventually come over the top of the mountains, past the marble quarries. The road is dotted with little places where you can pull in for the obligatory photo opportunity, looking across the valley to the peaks and the little villages balanced on the edge of the vast rocks. Fantastic! On the way down from the top, there is a little village where there is a collection of houses, shops, cafes and a fantastic viewpoint over Massa and the sea. Stop for lunch or a simple refreshment and take in the breathtaking vista.

Forte dei Marmi – based in Versilia, this is a wonderful seaside resort. More up-market than its neighbour Viareggio , and much more Italian, it is the summer playground of the rich and famous, as well as normal everyday Italians having a day at the beach. It is quite normal to have a walk along the beach and bump into Grand Prix drivers, Italian footballers, supermodels, the list is endless… It is worth having a stroll along the esplanade behind the beach to admire the various assortment of sports cars – a finer collection of Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari and Lamborghini you will never see in one place! The shopping is also quite exclusive, the centre of town being full of designer shops, few with prices in the windows! However, for the affordable version, there are touts on the beach with very good copies of all the designer goods who will barter to a price in keeping with your budget. They will also take no for an answer if you are not interested. Shop around for a spot on the beach, as prices vary from beach to beach. Beaches are identified by the different entrances on to the beach from the road and prices vary depending on the facilities available (hot showers, cold showers, changing booths, etc). Spaces are taken up very quickly at weekends, so best to go through the week if possible (it is also less expensive for your umbrella and chairs). There are free beaches, but these have no facilities and get very crowded.